1921 Travel Diary - Chapter X

Morning broke bright and clear but clouded over soon after and, during breakfast, looked much like rain. There had been a heavy dew so we hoped for the best and got away at 8 am. In good spirits and greatly refreshed by a good night's rest. We did not stop in New Westminster, but took the road leading to the 'Marine Drive' and, about half way between New Westminster and Vancouver, left Maudie by the side of the road while we retired to a secluded spot and had a grand wash and cleanup, then highly respectable in fresh clothes proceeded on our way, passing through Shaughnessy Heights, the residential district of Vancouver. Maudie was inclined to be nervous and headstrong crossing the bridge but quieted down during the wait, while W. interviewed someone of no consequence about something of no interest, consuming meanwhile an hour or so that was of consequence and which might have been devoted to the pursuit of a matter that was of pressing interest. We then headed for the Docks and, while W. made inquiry as to the cost of transport to the island and the time of sailing, B. and L. made important discoveries to the habitat of the Government Bureau of Good Cheer and obtained general directions how to reach certain places of interest. It being, of course necessary to verify this information they repaired immediately to the afore mentioned Bureau and, since it is always wise to stand in well with the Government, subscribed to the funds being raised by this department to the very modest limit allowed to visitors. Returning to the Docks they were shocked to learn that the Shipping Agent, evidently a man of the world, had, after taking one glance at Maudie, classified her as a "baggage". We had called her most things during the last week but this had not occurred to us. A mental note was taken of the term and it was subsequently found quite useful. The next boat did not leave until 5:45 p.m., so we had plenty of time to do a little sightseeing and, after leaving the speedometer to be fixed and picked up on our return trip, drove out to Stanley Park,

which we found without difficulty. Our first impression upon reaching the park was, more the wisdom, which had retained this practically virgin forest and preserved it for the benefit of the city and general public to use within reason, than its actual beauty, although this is well worthy of notice. The fact that it was until quite recently the property of the of the Imperial Government was undoubtedly the cause of saving it during the boom time from the greed of the real-estate agents and it is to be hoped that the City Fathers may continue to appreciate its inestimable value as a Park and Recreation ground where, on account of its accessibility, the jaded city dweller can find rest and peace amid the glories of nature, practically unspoiled by man. Driving part way round the Park, we stopped at a place where the road crosses a small bridge over a small stream close to the shore. We had seen the sea in Puget Sound, but this was our first opportunity to really reach it and with one accord all but the Kid marched solemnly down and took a taste. This performed, the Kid constrained to do likewise, then a fire was built on the beach and lunch prepared. Our appetite for which was not lessened by the salt water - only very slightly salty on account of the stream which here flows into Burrard Inlet - or by the fact that, in honour of the occasion, little brother's services had been requisitioned and libation made. By this time the weather had completely cleared up, but the regular August haze was very much in evidence and, as there was no wind to dispel it, distant views were badly obscured. There was, however, plenty close at hand to attract our attention and, as there was no immediate hurry, we wandered round on foot for a short time, the Kid filling his pockets with shells, barnacles, etc., and throwing many stones into the sea. Then, driving on a short distance, we again stopped to investigate on foot the inner beach and wander at random around the trees. The Siwash Indians have a belief, that all good people live again as trees, rendering beneficial service to all manner of living things, providing material for the use of man, enriching the earth in due time by their decay in order that others in turn may thrive. On the other hand evil people become rocks and stones, the measure of evil in their hearts clearly shown by their failure to maintain life of tree or plant. Thus, a moss-grown boulder would be one who, in a former incarnation, had some good instincts or deeds to his credit; but barren rock or stone, even when covered with lichen, would represent one who lived without any redeeming features whatever. The famous Siwash Rock is an exception to this general rule. In this case a really good and honourable chieftain was placed here to guard the land and, as a token of the kindness of his heart, there has always been a fringe of green growing from the brow of the rock. There are many other interesting legends connected with this place several of which are published in "Legends of Vancouver" by the late Pauline Johnson, and anyone visiting the Park for the first time would do well to read these stories.

While wandering round, a pretty bit of stream running out of a shallow, spring fed pond where water lilies grew in profusion caught our fancy and was duly recorded. Returning to the car, we again drove on, visiting the big tree which turned out to be disappointing as it is not as large or a well preserved as the one near Silvana, neither is it possible to drive through it and the photos on sale showing the car emerging from the tree are fakes in their suggestion as the car has first to be backed in. It must, however, have been a very fine tree when alive and there are yet many exceptionally large trees growing in different parts of the Park. But as it covers something over 1200 acres, it was of course impossible to thoroughly explore it in the limited time at our disposal.

It was now time to start for the Docks, so we fed Maudie and drove down to the boat landing, where we removed her glasses and, after a short wait got on board without trouble. The Kid was much interested in the boat, but did not share our disappointment at the flat calm of the water and was in fact quite relieved to find that it was impossible to rock the boat, even when several people moved to the side at the same time. Going down the inlet, we got a good view of the Siwash Rock and also the Lions to the North of us, but the haze was so thick that it was useless to attempt taking pictures. The crossing from Vancouver to Nanaimo occupied just two hours and was a very pleasant change after our long drive. As we neared Nanaimo the kid happened to be leaning - being for the moment separated from his beloved back seat - against the steam pipe funnel, not knowing that the siren was used to signal the approach to port, and being taken completely by surprise removed himself with great celerity and dispatch when our arrival was signaled with a mighty blast. On reaching land, we didn't even wait to put on Maudie's glasses but drove out of town, taking the Island Highway with the intention of getting as far South as possible before camping. We succeeded in making about 15 miles and as it was then almost dark camped by the side of the road on a rather rocky slope at about 8:30 p.m. This was not a very good camp, being, in the peculiar idiom of the Kid, closely related by descent to a 'high-board fence'. But there was plenty of dry wood and, although we had only 50 miles, we had had a very full day and were therefore not too critical. We had, by this time, adopted the proverb "Early to bed and early to rise" as our rule of life - the Kid taking care of the 'early to bed' part immediately after supper and L. disturbing our peaceful slumbers at unspeakably early hours in the morning. Accordingly, by 7 am. We were again driving south and, after passing through Ladysmith and Chemainus, began seeking diligently for a camp of more than ordinary merit, as we proposed to make it our headquarters during our stay on the Island. A little distance out of Chemainus a sign on the road "To Crofton and Maple Bay" caught our fancy, so we left the highway for this side road. The trail soon branched again and we, taking the left, landed at a Siwash fishing village on the shores of a muddy creak. Returning to the fork in the trail, we tried the other branch and soon reached Maple Bay. At first sight it appeared that here again we were doomed to disappointment, as it was much too populous, but noticing a side road which seemed to follow the shore line, although some little distance from it, we decided to try it and, after about a mile fortune smiled upon us, providing an almost perfect spot 20 miles from our night camp. It was rather too much hope that we, strangers as we were to the Island and without the time for a careful search, should locate the ideal camp that we had all along had in mind - a happy combination of the sea, shelter, scenery and a fresh-water supply - and yet we had done it and were there.