B.
was up bright and early and, while breakfast was being cooked, fashioned
out of an old shoe two outside patches for Maudie's front feet and
laced them securely into position. Breakfast over and camp struck,
we got away in high hopes at 7 am. While climbing Snoqualmie Pass
we drove through a small collection of log cabins, scattered haphazard
by the side of the road and along a small stream. There was also
evidence that some prospect holes had been dug in the bank of this
stream and there were remnants of old water flumes. This place was
now entirely deserted but since, from road signs, its name appeared
to be Gold Creek we supposed it to be the site of a long abandoned
gold strike. The Kid was much interested and would probably have
liked to stop and hunt for nuggets which had been overlooked by
former residents, but fever of the road now having a firm grip on
us, we did not even pause. The smoke which, when going out, had
bothered us so much on this stretch of road had thinned to a faint
haze and the views seen from a different direction made this seem
like an entirely new road, although we, of course noted certain
landmarks that for one reason or another had impressed themselves
on our minds. We met a number of cars before reaching Lake Kacheelus,
which had evidently been camping over the weekend and were now on
their return home. It is evidently the intention of the authorities
to considerably increase the size of this lake, as a large dam is
being built across the valley at the lower end and the low ground
surrounding the lake has been logged off and cleared of everything
but stumps. It is impossible to say whether these are also to be
cleared or left to rot but, if the latter is the intention these
stumps will make swimming and boating tricky work when the lake
level has been raised a few feet. Passing Summit, we made good run
down to Cle-Elum, where we stopped to purchase supplies, and W.
and L. encountered a particularly pleasing specimen of the 'Eagle-scream,
greatest-in-the-world U-nited States citizen', who, by sneering
at Canada and all things Canadian, including the coinage, narrowly
escaped finding out to his cost that 'Democracy' was not yet 'safe'
from 'the World', when the particular democrat has neither sense
or manners. Maudie had been bumping along fairly on her patched
shoes but, one mile outside Cle-Elum, decided that it was time to
have her sock changed. The resulting stop was utilized to secure
a picture of the Kachees River, the charm of it barely suggested
by the print below, while the change and repair were being effected.
The grade up to Blewett's Pass from the west, or strictly speaking
south, is not as steady as the reverse side and broken
in places with short stretches of level or downhill, but increases
in steepness as it nears the top. Although nowhere really steep,
a good deal of it has to be taken 'in low' and the day being now
quite hot, Maudie evinced signs of mountain fever, so, at a sharp
turn very near the top of the pass, we stopped to allow her to rest.
From this point we had a splendid view of the mountain, peak and
valley. From the promontory on which we stood the hill fell away
precipitously from the very edge of the road to a deep valley, the
spruce and fir showing violet in the shadow of its depth. To the
right, a higher ridge, almost bare of trees where some snow-slide
had swept down, showed yellow in the sunlight. Directly in front,
but at some distance, a mass of tumbled hill, the trees thinning
out as they neared the top, and bare rock of many shades from slate
and blue-green to reddish-brown or yellow showing in between the
scattered and stunted growth. To our left and behind the road winding
down with twist and turn, now hidden with the trees and again appearing
where some small opening allowed a glimpse of turn or corner. In
the strict sense of the word, Blewett's is not a pass at all, as
the road literally climbs up and over the hills, while a pass suggests
a way between. We were now nearly at the top, at least 4000 ft.
above sea-level, and the road has always on one side or the other
a very steep drop below it, as it twists in a continual series of
'S' turns down and round the side of the hill. So that some idea
of the steady interest and change of scenery can be imagined; add
to this the glorious colouring, brilliant sunlight and a few fleecy
clouds and it is no wonder that we, poor dwellers on the bald prairie
without decent hill or tree as far as the eye can reach, were at
a loss for words to express our appreciation. Immediately after
restarting we came to a place where the road was being widened by
blasting out the side of the hill and passing a spot where shot
was ready to be fired, Maudie deliberately trod on a sharp stone
to the detriment of her sock, thereby making another stop necessary,
but we kept on until the next corner had been turned. The road-gang
were at dinner, so repairs were completed and we were once more
on our way before the men returned to work or the shot was fired.
An easy run down the pass of about 12 miles brought us to a stream
crossing the road and here we stopped for lunch at about 2 p.m.,
then continuing on downhill we came to a place where the road was
still under
construction and had a little difficulty persuading Maudie to negotiate
the loose, rough foundation. This section was the same as the one
where we had to assist other outfits on the outward journey, but
then we were on the old trail since blocked by the new grade. Close
to this place we passed a huge, bare rock-face, beautifully veined
and coloured, rising from the trees at its foot like some enormous
pyramid, impervious alike to summer sun or winter storm. We soon
after reached the entrance to the pass proper and the run from here
to Wenatchee was without incident other than the dust which we had
to take for some time from a car which we overtook, but which would
not give us room to pass and, when nearing the town, more trouble
with Maudie's boots. By this time we were beyond making any comment
and repairs were executed in dead silence, in fact it was not considered
wise to even mention socks or shoes to B. and the repair-kit, tools
and pump were produced automatically without being requisitioned.
Supplies were again purchased in town and then, crossing the Columbia
River - which we decided should by all rights be the natural geographic
boundary between Canada and the States - we began the long uninteresting
run to Spokane.
From here on it is perhaps better to draw a veil over the balance
of the day's drive, the trial and tribulations suffered being more
like a nightmare that anything else. Suffice it to say that two
stops were necessary before climbing out of the Columbia valley.
Another provided an opportunity to watch the light dying out over
the Cascades from the vicinity of Waterville where, by the way,
L. bought some excellent doughnuts. The old lady from whom they
were purchased is probably still wondering if she was not defrauded
by not receiving the 10-cent piece allowed for that purpose over
and above the actual cost price. Some time after dark tea was hurriedly
made in a smudge-yard about six miles further on, while attention
was being given to Maudie's requirements, then opportunity given
to stretch our legs and fill pipes near the second coulee and midnight
again found us held up on the Eastern outskirts of Coulee City and
finally, in desperation, we stopped by the roadside that place and
Hartline at about 1 a.m., having made 199 mile, a very creditable
performance when the amount of trouble experienced is taken into
consideration. This place cannot be classed as a camp, as no fires
were made or meals taken. L. did indeed rustle some firewood from
a distance, in the shape of pickets surplus, as he judged in the
darkness, to the fence they were originally intended to support,
but on his return found W. and the Kid in bed and probably asleep,
B. too cold and cranky to care for anything but bed and Maudie,
with a satisfied smirk on her face, halting gracefully on one foot
- and another 20 hour day was brought to and end.
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