It
was hardly full daylight when we awoke - it was too cold and the
ground too hard for sleep - and, while B. attended to Maudie, beds
were rolled and packed and shortly after 6 am. we were again on
the road. There was absolutely no shelter at the place where we
had slept and a bitter wind blowing, so breakfast had been postponed
until a more suitable place was found, firewood being packed along
with us. This, the disgraceful state of Maudie's footwear, caused
us to find just beyond Hartline, where a high bank and culvert caught
the early morning sun and also sheltered us from the wind. Feeling
much better for breakfast, we again proceeded and at Almira, where
we stopped at the mill to fill up our water reserve and to give
Maudie a drink, an aluminum coffeepot was in some way was added
to our outfit, but unfortunately the lid was missing. We were now
progressing by leaps and bounds - generally covering about 3 miles
in each leap and rather less in a bound - and on reaching Wilbur
we had, much against our will, to acknowledge partial defeat and
purchase both a new shoe and sock, the third since leaving home,
which with the exorbitant exchange exacted by the piratical local
bank, was a severe strain on our finances. We anticipated that Maudie,
from sheer perversity, would now run several miles before demanding
the new shoe, but here again she deceived us and the change was
necessary before we were fairly clear of the town, and this stop
was utilized for preparing and eating lunch. The frequency of the
stops this morning may be guessed from the fact that we had only
covered a little more than 26 miles in about 6 hours or approximately
4½ miles per hour, but no record of the actual number of these halts
was kept.
For a time we got on much better, but Maudie was now concentrating
all her effort on the absolute ruination of the remaining front
shoe and meeting with so much success that, by the time we limped
into Deer Creek and came to an involuntary pause in front of a combination
general store, gas station and garage, we were in desperate straits.
Here, as in Wilbur, we made inquiries as to the possibility of obtaining
a used shoe and, after some negotiation, the woman in charge of
the place offered us a worn shoe free if we would by a new sock.
This offer was of course joyfully accepted and in addition two patches
and some commissariat supplies were purchased. The Damaged shoe
was clean cut through in one place but was otherwise good and we
believed would hold out for a long time if properly patched inside,
so it was with more cheerfulness that we once again prepared to
resume the journey, invoking blessings on the head of our benefactress,
whom we named 'The Angel'. As mile after mile slipped past, without
the dreaded warning that another repair must be made, our spirits
continued to rise, and by the time we reached Spokane we were again
considering the possibility of reaching Cranbrook before noon of
the next day. The 15 miles of paved road to the east of Spokane
was covered in short order and a proposed halt for supper near a
river, close by where the paved road ended, was discarded in favor
of pushing on to the place, North of Rathdrum, where we had lunched
when outward bound. This was reached at about 8:30 p.m., the day's
mileage being then 145 miles, and supper was soon ready. Heavy thunderclouds
were coming up fast and, after a short discussion we decided to
pull on although we had already been 14 hours on the road, and at
9:30 we again started. The rain first caught us before we had gone
very far and the top was put up for the first time on the trip,
then driving slowly and rather crowded by the various articles which
had been hitherto stowed in the top, in addition to personal baggage
taken in for protection from the rain, but in better spirits than
we had been all day we headed for Sandpoint and the international
boundary.
Crossing the two-mile bridge into Sandpoint was quite an eerie
sensation, with the planks, wet and slippery, glistening in the
light and apparently nothing on either side or below the narrow
wooden roadway. The town, although it was then hardly midnight was
locked in profound slumber, and we drove through some of the main
streets in search of an all-night garage where gas might be purchased,
but did not see a single person. In imagination we contrasted this
condition with the life and movement that this town must have been
in evidence when the town was young and crowded with spectators,
lumberjacks and trappers and which would still no doubt have been
present (the pelting rain may have had something to do with it)
but for the blighting laws which, to satisfy a pharisaical group,
decree that the open enjoyment of good fellowship be forbidden,
but which are powerless to control the very abuses that gave pretext
for their enactment in any other way than by driving them to fester
and multiply below the surface.
It must have been some such thought as this that drove Maudie to
attempt suicide by driving onto the railroad track, and one could
hardly blame her, although immediate steps were taken to bring her
back into the right way. Outside town some time was lost in assisting,
by means of W's flashlight, another belated traveller, in difficulty
and darkness from a short circuit. We followed this man for some
distance, but Maudie in the darkness and on slippery roads could
not keep pace with him so dropped back to the slow, sedate gait
at which we had been traveling. Strange waves of silence had descended
on us from time to time and now became the general rule, only occasionally
broken by a gentle snore or impatient movement as one or other attempted
to relieve his cramped position. B., in no better case that the
rest but forced to maintain an attempt at watchfulness, fought off
for some time the desire for sleep by watching an apparently endless
procession of ghosts which, appearing suddenly by the side of the
road, danced or flitted with many a strange contortion down the
road ahead of us, to vanish as mysteriously as they had come when
beyond the range of our lights - in reality of course nothing more
than wisps of mist or vapour. At last warned by distinctly seeing
the road running straight ahead, when in reality it turned sharply
to the left, B. pulled up and slept and it is doubtful whether the
rest realized we had stopped until a short time later we again proceeded.
Bonner's Ferry was reached at 4 am. And finding an all night restaurant
on the main street, we sacrificed our unblemished record and partook
of a purchased meal under a roof other than the trees or sky. Let
the fact that we had driven under adverse conditions a distance
of 203 miles, had been on the road 22 consecutive hours, that it
was still raining and we had to wait until gas could be procured,
be sufficient excuse. It might as well be admitted that, after the
first sensation of backsliding had worn off, the cold wet night
drive described above produced a hearty appetite - which did not
require, but would not have been weakened by a stimulant, if such
had been handy - and a proper appreciation of the hot breakfast
provided most expeditiously by the imperturbable Chinaman who was
on duty. This was followed by a wash in an inadequate basin aided
by unsuitable soap and a fragmentary towel. Nothing so venturesome
as a shave was attempted, even by W., but we felt better and tobacco
once more tasted baccy.
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