The
campsite, an open space of perhaps an acre sloping down to the road,
was nicely secluded, though only a short distance from that thoroughfare;
sheltered on practically two sides by the railroad embankment which
here makes a sharp bend and on the others by a thick growth of trees
and brush, through which ran a tiny streamlet of clear water. We
had turned in early the night before and, after the past four days
of strenuous driving, had slept soundly and comfortably on excellent
beds of spruce boughs, so were again feeling fit by the time the
morning oats were consumed. The day was beautifully fine and clear,
so bedrolls were again spread out to dry and air while we enjoyed
a good cleanup. We were in no hurry, since it had been definitely
decided the night before to abandon the attempt to arrive home on
schedule time and great was the relief. The position in which we
found ourselves was this. The distance from Cranbrook to Regina
was practically 700 miles, which would have to be covered in four
days at an average of 175 miles per day. The shoes, counting the
one in Cranbrook, should give very little trouble from now on as
they were virtually new, one sound with the exception of a cut which
was well patched and looked like holding and one newly repaired.
But we had no spares and Maudie herself was not in the best of health,
having a strained ligament in her back and was again rebellious
and impatient of restraint. Any delay, whatever the cause, meant
an increase in the daily average and a breakdown or repairs of any
sort would wipe out our depleted currency and leave us 'broke',
as we had only about enough left for bare necessities as far as
Maple Creek. It seemed, therefore, that the course of wisdom was
to arrange for the floatation of a loan or otherwise replenish our
exchequer before leaving Cranbrook and, this done, to proceed with
moderation, have Maudie attended to in Fernie if she showed any
more symptoms by the time we reached that place, continuing in due
course and with reasonable speed to our respective homes, and L.,
in order to keep on the right side of the laws to which he was subject,
had decided to wire for an extension of leave. In case this was
refused he could still leave us at the last moment and take the
train from Maple Creek, to which place the reply was to be sent.
We therefore timed our start so as to reach Cranbrook about 10
a.m. And B. after a brief interview with the banker, wired for funds,
L. dispatching his wire at the same time. We then picked up and
put on the repaired shoe, left the pump to be fixed, purchased viands
and revivifier and leisurely went back to our campsite for lunch.
The permit by virtue of which the above-mentioned tonic was procured,
was already 'time-expired', a fact which the dispenser of joy and
gladness was considerate enough to overlook. He did, however, impose
a stern restraint on our demands, even at the eleventh hour when
we believed that we had 'got-away' with all that we desired, or
rather all for which we could pay - for, amongst the dwellers on
the plains of the middle West there is for
this priceless elixir of Jamaica a desire that knows no limit. The
reply to B's wire was received at 3 o'clock, by which time we were
again in town and ready for the road, so, as soon as this detail
had been satisfactorily settled we pulled out and a short distance
from town took the road to Fort Steele instead of the one by which
we had come. Very soon after taking this route a stop was made to
allow for the replacement of white shirts, donned in honour to the
town, by the more serviceable khaki, and the beautiful prospect
of trees and distant mountains seen from this spot was duly recorded.
A short run brought us to Fort Steele, on the East bank of the Kootenay
River. This town, now almost deserted, has a history which in interest
is second to none of the inland towns of the province and was at
one time the centre of great mining and lumbering ventures, besides
being the outfitting post for prospectors and trappers and the principle
station for the N.W.M.P., and still bears silent but eloquent record
of these stirring times. From here the road follows pretty closely
the course of the Kootenay until, crossing the Bull River, it rejoins
the main road opposite Wardner, but passes through some very pleasing
scenery, with the Western face of the Lizard Range in plain view
on the left. As we neared Elko we ran onto wet roads and could see
ahead of us skifts of rain from time to time, the clouds low and
traveling fast in a North or North-easterly direction, but with
a good break low down in the south-west and we hoped to avoid any
actual rain. Maudie very pleased with herself that she had been
able to interfere to some extent with our plans, was now much annoyed
that we were in such good spirits and became so absent-minded in
trying to think up something 'unusual d….mean' that she refused
to stop when called upon and kept B. on the continual lookout for
approaching cars. In Elko we made inquiry as to the possibility
of having her attended to, but as the physician was not fully qualified,
in fact merely a farrier, we drove on and, not to hurt his feeling,
allowed him to believe that we had gone to look for a campsite.
For all we know to the contrary, he is still sharpening his scalpel
in the hopes that Maudie will be yet dragged back to undergo an
operation at his hands. It was really our intention to camp almost
at once, but the beautifully clear light - the rain having removed
every trace of smoke, haze or dust from the air - with the raindrops
sparkling on the trees in the sunlight which made rainbows of the
low-lying, fleecy clouds traveling only a short distance ahead of
us, and lit up the newly washed faces of the hills or by contrast
deepened the shadows in the clefts, was more than we could resist
and we drove slowly on, actually in sight of rain falling sharply
on the road beyond us. We did investigate one place at a time when
we too closely approached a shower of rain, but as it was a "public
campsite" the investigation was more to find reasons why we should
not stop there. These we found in plenty, though this spot was a
model of cleanliness compared with Bothell, and so drove slowly
on through the magnificent scenery which fortune had decreed that
we should now see at its best - and what a sight it was. The trees
and bushes in every shade of green, from the delicate pale green
of the tamarack to the dark almost black, green of the older spruce
and fir, here and there picked out with a touch of yellow or orange-red
from some early changing leaves or dull, russet brown of bark or
trunk, then, higher up, seen through the valley, catching and reflecting
the light of the setting sun, shone like a huge gem of ruby and
amethyst, garnet, sapphire and pearl, even the moss and lichen,
like a filigree of gold or bronze, visible in the marvelously clear
light which seemed to deepen the purple shadow in cleft or hollow.
Presently, a fresh battalion of fleecy clouds fleeing before the
wind would pour over the crest of the hills, like a flock of frightened
sheep, some attempting to hide in the depths of a gorge or ravine,
whilst others, harried and torn by every crag and peak, fled hurriedly
up the valley.
As the light faded we again stopped to examine a possible campsite
and a fine one was found on the top of a ridge, but water was some
distance away and everything was very wet, so, having ourselves
got nicely soaked while looking for a near supply of water, we decided
to go on and eventually reached Fernie after dark, where for the
sake of dryness we camped on a cinder dump, a high bank sheltering
us from the wind and a rather inadequate supply of sage-weed for
bedding. The half-day's run was 60 miles.
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