Once
across the flat outside Maple Creek, we held a steady pace and reached
Hatton in a little over an hour. From this place on it was all new
country for L. and the Kid. The Walsh flat starts about 4 miles
beyond Hatton and continues practically as far as Irvine. The main
flat must have been at one time a large shallow lake or slough,
and would still be impassable in wet weather. The Fourth Meridian
which runs through the middle of the flat, was duly saluted with
blasts from the horn, and skirting the village of Walsh the road
follows what appears to have been an arm of the flat winding between
hills in places and again opening out. About 4 miles beyond Walsh
Maudie raised a blister on a front foot and we had to put on a spare
shoe. The Kid was quite put out, as a freight train which we had
just overtaken passed us during the operation, but became reconciled
on shooting a gopher. Almost immediately after this we ran onto
new grade in the making, which continued to within a mile of Irvine,
and Maudie becoming feverish it was necessary to procure her a drink
in this village.
Here we left the regular road and took the trail to Dunmore in
the hope we could get across from that place to Seven Persons without
going into Medicine Hat, which would have saved several miles -
B's mania for trying new trails was the real reason - Everything
went well until we reached Dunmore, but there we were told that
the cross trails were poor and rough and that we should make better
time by going through the Hat. However, we had lost no mileage so
continued through that place without stopping and immediately after
started looking for a suitable campsite. Good camping grounds there
were in the plenty in the coulee, but no way of getting down to
them without going quite a distance out of our road, so finally
we again camped in the open at 8:30. This, in the month of August,
is as late as the making of camp should be left if the work is to
be done in any sort of comfort. Later on, camps were selected, wood
rustled, supper cooked and eaten and beds made at all hours of the
night owing to misadventure on the road and our feverish anxiety
to arrive at our goal - the sea. At this spot, 10 miles from Medicine
Hat (S.W.) and 83 miles from Maple Creek, there was no lack of firewood,
a cyclone having at some time demolished a homesteader's shack and
scattered the wreckage all over the prairie. All hands assisted
in gathering wood and laying out the beds, while L. boiled the kettle
and got supper. B. would insist on running barefoot, but as there
were many cactus of the pincushion variety he soon learnt to walk
delicately. Supper of pork and beans followed by a smoke round the
campfire induced a state of mind receptive to the maxims of the
afore-mentioned Mrs. Hurd and left us at peace with the world.
Breakfast bright and early next morning enabled us to start by
5:30 am. Incidentally, the last of our water supply being required
for tea, we unanimously decided that washing was merely an adjunct
to an effete civilization and could easily be - postponed.
The country between Medicine Hat and Taber is not interesting,
the most noticeable feature being the number of deserted farms -
the condition of Southern Alberta in this respect being at least
as tragic as that of South Western Saskatchewan, and for the same
reason, a fair ranching country proved to be quite unsuitable for
farming - Irrigation at Taber and West to Lethbridge appears to
be proving successful where the water is available and pober care
is taken, especially from Coaldale to Lethbridge where we noticed
some magnificent crops of second growth alfalfa. Just before reaching
Coaldale a ditch had been neglected, with the result that the road
was flooded, and although Maudie charged it gallantly she could
not quite get through. Fortunately a farmer, who was endeavoring
to make the surplus water keep to one course through his wheat field,
breathing lurid threats against his careless neighbor the while,
was working close to the road and lent a helping hand. So with W.
at the wheel and B. and the farmer pushing, Maudie squattered out.
In return for which assistance we reported the overflow to the authorities
in Coaldale. We reached Lethbridge at 11:30, after a run of 105
miles and pulled up on the north side of Galt Gardens. The Kid elected
to stay in the car and sleep while the rest of us went to view the
town, send postcards and make a few purchases including certain
toilet requisites for Maudie, after which we drove to the river
and lunched. On a former visit views of the railway bridge had been
obtained, so L., who had been duly appointed Photographer in chief
with W. as his assistant contented himself with a picture of the
traffic bridge over the South Saskatchewan River, which though not
so famous is far nicer. Lunch - and a washup - over, we crossed
the bridge and climbed out of the coulee, coming
out on top onto dry burnt up country. Just beyond Kipp we tried
to get a photo of the belly river and valley from the top of a high
cut-bank, but the distance was too great: the view, however, was
well worth stopping for. Uninteresting country again, but great
excitement on catching the first faint outline of the Rockies. These
by the way, must be in Montana, as they lie well to the Southwest.
The question as to who first saw the outline is still unsettled,
each of us being quite sure that it was he, but did not mention
the fact for fear it might prove to be a cloud.
As a general thing the Alberta roads are good and we were not long
in reaching Macleod, 35 miles from Lethbridge. Here W. was induced
to purchase a guide-book, which if not accurate was at least interesting,
and also secured a picture of the R.N.W.M.P. barracks, more for
the historical interest than for the architectural beauty of the
buildings, this being the oldest post in Alberta. About 2 miles
out of Macleod Maudie developed a hole in her sock almost at the
identical spot where her predecessor of two years ago had done the
same thing. The hole having been darned literally and metaphorically,
we providing the while interest and amusement to a number of passing
Indians who were passing on their way to town, our progress was
continued Westward. The road runs through the Peigan Reserve for
a considerable distance before reaching Brocket, where it crosses
Pincher Creek. Here, again there was much new grading, and we made
slow time as far as the town of Pincher. About half way between
that place and Cowley we crossed the South fork of the Old Man River.
This is the first really clear mountain stream and a favorite camping
spot, judging by the quantity of empty cans and other junk scattered
round. We could not resist stopping for a drink for ourselves and
Maudie. W. made a bee line for a large rock where he removed his
shoes, assuring us that it was "Oh most refreshing". Cowley is almost
the last place that is even remotely dependent on agriculture for
its existence and from this point the scenery improves rapidly,
although there is some cultivation as far as Lundbreck. The Mountains
to the South of us were now in plain sight and offered a fine view
of ragged peaks. Immediately west of Lundbreck the road dips into
the valley and crosses Old Man River, climbing the north bank parallel
with the stream. The hills now close in rapidly and a few stunted
firs appear: these first outposts of the trees have a hard existence
and show the effect of the prevailing wind, which blows almost daily
through the pass. The way they cling to the outcrops of rock is
wonderful, appearing to be only able to survive when their roots
are imbedded in the rocks. The formation of the outcrop
is also very peculiar, almost straight lines of ridges, broken by
the river valley but continuing again on the other side and suggesting
the ribs of some prehistoric monster, but of such huge dimensions
that they might well be called the ribs of the world. We were now
again on the watch of a suitable camp and as we rounded a turn in
the road we saw what appeared to be an ideal spot on a small flat
where the river turned from a high bank with trees and brush in
the angle. This was some distance ahead, and unfortunately for us
appeared to be almost inaccessible, being shut off from the road
by a ravine to the east, also a railroad grade and rocky hill to
steep for Maudie to climb. About a quarter of a mile further on
however, we came to a coal mine, not in operation, and noticed what
appeared to be a gate in the railroad fence, to reach which it was
necessary to cross some old coal sidings and dumps. Scouting parties
at once went
out and decided that all obstacles could be overcome. The coal dumps
were easy, only requiring care, the track was crossed with the aid
of old slabs to break the jar of the rails, and by making a sharp
turn alongside the track and following the grade back a short distance
a place was found where we could easily cross the fence on the south
side of the track. From here we had only to skirt the side of the
hill to reach the spot we were making for, which more than justified
the rather tiresome quarter mile we had to negotiate in order to
reach it. At this camp, our fourth night since leaving Regina, brush
beds of creeping spruce and cherry were prepared by B. and the Kid,
while L. got supper and W. made himself generally useful. Although
we had covered 191 miles and the beds guaranteed sleep, yet it was
so gloriously peaceful and comfortable round the campfire on this
clean, grassy, little flat - sheltered and surrounded by brush,
trees and small hills - with the clear sky above, and the music
of the river burbling contentedly on its way to Hudson's Bay, that
it was only with the greatest reluctance that we finally turned
in after performing what was in future a nightly duty, viz., locating
the North Star and from that determining the exact point at which
the sun would appear.
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