Immediately
after crossing the valley the Divide trail climbs the shoulder of
a hill, and here the road is very narrow, just a notch cut out of
the hillside, with a straight drop to the railroad track on the
left and the hill climbing steeply above you on the right. Fortunately,
the two short stretches of about a quarter mile each take you over
this place which by the way, is the only piece of road in the whole
pass likely to try the nerves of a timid driver, and B. acknowledges
that he has no very clear recollection of the immediate scenery.
Once over this, the pass widens out and a little further on the
first public camping ground was passed. These camping grounds are
placed at intervals through British Columbia and the States, usually
close to towns. As a general thing, water is available within an
easy distance and a camp stove built for the public use, but wood
and shelter are not always procurable. Their worst feature is the
accumulation of filth and rubbish of all sorts left by people who
are too selfish to realize that others may wish to camp there and
too lazy to practice common decency: their chief recommendation
that they have camp stoves or are in safe locations, and the danger
of fires being started by careless or ignorant campers is therefore
not so great. During the whole of the trip we only found two camp
fires that had been properly doused, but noticed many - especially
in the Cascades - which had been left to smoulder, and a clean campsite,
either public or otherwise was very rare. After passing the first
saw-mill we had seen we wound round the side of a well wooded hill,
then down a long winding grade to a tributary of the Elk river,
where we camped for lunch at the place already known to W. and B.,
5 miles within the B. C. boundary. This being the Kid's birthday
he excused himself from camp duties and went to throw stones into
the river, in the course of which operation he wandered a short
distance upstream, where he discovered what he believed might be
a large gold nugget, but as lunch was now ready he did not investigate
thoroughly being quite convinced, in his inmost feelings, that the
nugget had been there a long time and could still wait but the birthday
cake, brought from Regina, could not.
The spot we had chosen for our camp was about 30 yards from the
road, 8 or 10 feet above the river. On our side the trees had been
cut and burned off, leaving only scrub and some scattered trees
of small size growing up a steep slope across the road, but the
other side the river a small flat was thickly covered with spruce,
tamarack and cotton-wood, hiding the railroad which clung to the
opposite hillside: behind us the river upstream swung sharply to
the South, away from the wooded hill down which we had come. Down
stream, a narrow valley with tree grown walls interspersed with
patches of bare rock led to a view of mountains closing at the end
of the valley. The whole, with the quick play of strong sunlight
and shadow, the sparkling water, the green of the spruce and fir,
accentuated by the red trunks of the latter, with here and there
the grey or blue rocks showing through, made a picture of wonderful
beauty, and one we should have been loath to leave had we not known
that still more glorious scenery awaited us. When packing up after
lunch we missed a kit bag belonging to L., and as this was known
to have been in place not long before. B. and the Kid went back
with Maudie to look for it, leaving the photographers to be driven
nearly insane by the limitations of the camera. The Kid, who was
watching the road while B. drove, justified his scout training by
noticing a place about 300 yards from camp where a car which had
passed while we were at lunch had stopped and backed up, and on
closer examination the marks in the dust showed plainly where something
had lain. Maudie was promptly called upon to step lively in the
hope of overtaking these petty larceny, kit bag kidnapers - the
place was in sight of our camp and a shout would have easily been
heard. Fortune was with us, for upon reaching the public campsite
a party was found to be camping there, and the Kid going in to make
inquiries found them to be the same party to have passed us and
recovered the kit bag. Perhaps the fact that these people deliberately
chose to stop where they did is sufficient explanation of their
failure to make any attempt to call to our attention when the bag
was found by them. "Souvenirs" explain a number of thefts.
On returning, L. and W. were picked up and the journey continued
down the valley, which is a real pass between the hills. In places
the railway 50 to 60 feet above the road clings like a swallow's
nest to the face of the hills, it's roadbed being held up by masonry
built into the hillside, again taking a big loop and dropping to
the level of the road.
About five miles beyond Michel, which is a dirty, dismal, mining
town, the streets of which are made of cinders that have also overflowed
into what should have been the gardens, we came out into the true
Elk River Valley. This is a wide valley coming down from the North,
bounded on its Western side by a range of mountains known as the
Lizard Range, with it sides badly scarred by forest fires. From
here to Fernie the country has been badly cut over and burnt, and
this was perhaps the least interesting stretch of road covered while
in the Province.
Just before reaching Fernie, 33 miles from Crow's Nest, we pulled
up to try for a picture of Mt. Hosmer which rises to the height
of 8,000 feet, its sides showing plainly the course of past snow
slides. By bad luck, the clouds were now so heavy that a good picture
was impossible at the distance - added to which there was considerable
smoke haze. For many dusty miles we, poor victims of a fanatical
- but organized - minority coercing a pusillanimous government in
our province, had looked forward to our arrival in Fernie, the first
point within the B. C. borders where the benevolent and business
government of that province dispenses - for a price - to traveler
and resident alike the milk of human kindness, balm for the weary,
health for the sick, hope for the hopeless, joy for the sad. But
luck was against us, as, having on our arrival in town duly registered
the party and made inquiries as to the laws of the province, we
then found that the day being Wednesday and the local half holiday
all the stores and government offices were closed, but we succeeded
in obtaining a passport from the provincial police and supplies
from a small store outside the town limits.
The scenery from Fernie to Elko - 18 miles distant - is famous
for its wildness, continuing down the river valley with the Lizards
a rampart to the West, but unlike the valley North of Fernie, almost
all untouched by fire, The trail keeps to the east side of the river,
sometimes climbing to a considerable height above it, then dropping
to a lower level, but leaving the general impression of going up
hill. The Return trip confirms this impression, there appearing
to be more downhill than up. B. maintains, therefore, that the river
runs uphill.
Ten miles from Fernie a sign by the road "Silverspring Lake 400
yards" arrested our attention, so pulling to the side of the road
we left Maudie to rest while we literally climbed up to the lake.
At
the start we noticed that an additional nought had been added to
the figures and by the time we reached the lake we were quite convinced
that this had been done by some stickler for the truth. The lake
was well worth the climb, however, set in a fold of the hills, we
came upon it at the head of a narrow inlet. Here we were in heavy
shadow, the rocky shores rising almost perpendicularly behind a
fringe of trees we reproduce in the still, clear water. Further
out the water sparkled in brilliant sunshine, and the hills rose
in one grand sweep from the water's edge to skyline, their height
dwarfing the scattered trees which clothed their sides.
Continuing our journey, we followed on down the valley, the scenery
proving simply magnificent, with the road now climbing the knees
of the hills, now descending into the valley. There were still too
many clouds for good snap-shots: it was also by this time late afternoon,
but even had the light been perfect no camera could reproduce the
wonderful colouring and ever changing shadows, as the sun broke
through the hurrying clouds. We crossed the river just below Elko,
but instead of turning up through the village continued on downstream
to the canyon. The river here passes through a deep, narrow, gorge
in a series of rapids and falls. The sides of the canyon are too
precipitous to allow of a descent except in certain places and as
the evening was drawing in we did not attempt to get down to the
water. Promising ourselves to revisit the place on the return trip,
but in case of accidents taking a view (time exposure in spite of
poor light).
Retracing the road to Elko, we passed through the village and drove
on 10 miles, when we camped about 1 mile out of Jaffray at 8:30
p.m. The camp was by the side of a stream in a fair shelter, with
sufficient pine and mixed brush to provide the beds, and although
we had only covered 99 miles, including side trips, we were quite
ready to do justice to our supper when L. announced that "the oxen
and fatlings were gathered together and all things were ready".
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