We
got away to a good start this morning, determined to make up a little
time after the comparative idling of the last two days. There was
a very heavy dew - almost a frost - and in addition our camp was
on the western slope of the hill, so the sun did not reach us before
we left, but once we were away soon began to warm up. Our road continued
down the valley for some distance, very stony and rough, with deep
dust hiding the stones and holes, the scenery not as fine as some
we had come through, the country having been cut and burnt over
in places. About 8 miles from camp we crossed the railroad, the
crossing made conspicuous by the sign "Look out for the cars" -
whether in warning to road or rail traffic we were unable to determine,
especially as this crossing was on the main street of a still sleeping
Meadow Creek. From here on both the road and the scenery improved
again, as the grade wound across the shoulder of a hill a pretty
bit of roadway was selected to represent Montana.
Soon
after this we crossed the border into Idaho and Maudie, whose irritability
and bad temper were becoming more noticeable, flatly refused to
keep any record of the distance or pace in spite of the care and
attention bestowed on her by B. on two occasions in an effort to
cure by kindness. The first of these efforts however provided a
picture of an Idaho road scene - for which it will be necessary
to look on pg. 16 - and the second resulted in a conversation with
a small hill farmer who, coming over to find out the cause of the
trouble discovered we were from Saskatchewan which he recognized
as the home of Seager Wheeler. It appeared that he himself was an
experimentalist in the breeding of new varieties of wheat, and,
as far as could be gathered was about to become famous for a new
wheat, far superior to any variety yet grown, but was rather handicapped
by having to pick out this wheat ear by ear from a field of mixed
varieties, mostly mongrel hybrids. His conversation, however, served
to pass the time for W. and L. and furnished an accompaniment to
the soft words of endearment addressed to Maudie by B. He also gave
us some information as to the next stage of the journey and the
prevailing climatic peculiarities of the district - so, on him be
the peace.
A drive of about 8 miles, some of it over very dusty roads, brought
us to a spot 31 miles from the start, whence we could look down
on the Bonner's Ferry, built in the valley on the South side of
the Kootenay River, with the hills rising again beyond the town.
Crossing the river by the bridge, we pulled up for refreshments
for Maudie, and it was here we suffered our first experience of
the iniquitous exchange rate - we had been unable to procure any
American Currency in Cranbrook - which though quoted about 12, usually
cost us 20 percent. On leaving the town we turned sharply to the
right, keeping close to the railroad, through Moravia, Naples and
Colburn.
Some three miles of new grading caused Maudie to get very thirsty
and a short stop was made at a small stream to allow her to cool
off, then, the road improving, we paced a train for some distance,
much to the joy of the Kid who became quite excited at times calling
insistently for "more gas", usually where it was advisable to slow
down. Sandpoint, 30 miles distant, was reached about 11 am., with
out further incident, except that the strained ligaments in Maudie's
back, which had been growing steadily worse for some time, were
now causing such pain that we decided to make a short stop in the
town while the doctor attended to her. This delayed us for some
2 hours, which time we spent in the surgery as the doctor was anxious
to get away to attend the inner man and we feared he might leave
Maudie to suffer unnecessarily. Sandpoint, a mining and lumbering
town, is on the famous Pend d 'Oreille Lake, and leaving town we
crossed a bridge of exactly two miles in length, over an arm of
the lake, the water so clear that stones, etc., could be plainly
seen, leading the Kid to believe the water was about two feet deep.
Driving on for some distance, we made a late noon camp about 8 miles
North of Rathdrum, near a flowing well. While we were at lunch the
owner of the land on which we had camped came over to see that we
did not let our campfire get away. Some recently burnt woods, passed
that morning, had started a discussion on the prevention and causes
of forest fires, during which the opinion was advanced that some
at least were attributable to the jealous, dog-in-the-manger spirit
of a certain class of settler. It was interesting therefore, to
here from this man who was of a talkative disposition, his own views
on the protection of the forests. Briefly, they were these - That
his own property should be carefully guarded, but that the forests
greatly hindered settlement and were exploited by the Lumber interest
to the detriment of the individual settler. Stating that, since
where one tree had grown naturally, another, of a different variety,
could be grown to the profit of the settler, he himself would not
be sorry to see the woods burnt. Within the last few days he had
been fighting fire to help his neighbours, but once he and they
were safe the fire could burn where it pleased, and he rather hoped
this would be extensively. He was also overly willing to impart
instruction as to how a camp fire should be left, but after watching
for a time and finding that from habit we left the camp safe and
clean - this latter apparently quite a new idea to him - he desisted.
Passing through Rathdrum, Maudie trod on a four inch spike and
the resulting hole in her sock had to be darned by the roadside
- this, by the way, was the only trouble we had with the shoe purchased
in Maple Creek.
For some distance we had been advised of dangerous turns, railroad
crossings, bridges, etc., by road signs bearing the name of "Dolby".
These were now supplemented by others indicating our approach to
Spokane, and turning South some distance further on we crossed the
border between Idaho and Washington and came upon the first stretch
of paved road, known we were told as the "Apple Road" and leading
into Spokane, 15 miles on, through some fine orchards and truck
farms. Maudie was not long in signifying her entire approval of
this speedway and danced along with great abandon, but on overtaking
a party accompanied by a distant relative, of better birth, gave
way in her excitement to her innate vulgarity and deliberately spat
at them, then flirting her skirts contemptuously cut in ahead.
Arriving in Spokane, we fed and watered Maudie and wasted some
time in looking for a nerve specialist, as we now believed that
Maudie's refusal to announce the rate of her progress was due to
some pressure on some nerve centre. One was found who treated her
for another slight disorder, but would not undertake the operation
believed to be necessary, proceeded on our way westward. The paved
road continuing, we made good time to Deer Creek, 17 miles out,
where we purchased supplies and L. sustained the Kid with chocolate.
A suggestion that we drive all night was discussed, but finally
discarded in favor of a late camp and early start, when we came
to the end of the paved way 18 miles west of Spokane.
The country here is dry and without much shelter and a good campsite
did not appear probable, so at about 9:30 p.m. we camped on an outcrop
of rock by the roadside, where some willows provided some firewood
and a certain amount of shelter, 27 miles West of Spokane, having
covered 158 miles. Being a stranger in a foreign land, we made sacrifice
to the gods of travel in accordance with immemorial custom. Had
it not been for this, the skunk which B. felt - not saw - walking
on the bed during the night might have seriously interfered with
our enjoyment.
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