According
to schedule, and to the disgust of the Kid, breakfast was ready
at 4 am. And by 4:30 we were again ready for the road, which now
passed through an agricultural section alternating with arid grazing
lands, and even the fence posts were tripod in form, as they could
not be set in the ground. Passing on our way the town of Reardon,
Davenport, Creston, Wilbur, Govan, Almira and Hartline, we came
after a run of 84 miles to Coulee City, and just beyond this place
turned aside to investigate a notice which announced the Dry Falls
of the prehistoric course of the Columbia river to be distant one
and a half miles to our left. After debating whether the time could
be spare to leave the trail and go see these falls - the call of
the sea was daily growing stronger and more insistent - we decided
to speculate an hour or so and were soon very pleased that we had
so decided, as the geographic freak referred to by the notice board
proved to be the only feature of any interest in this dreary section
of country. It would appear that possibly thousands of years ago,
by some action of nature the course of a mighty river had been diverted,
leaving its bed absolutely dry - of even a spring or trickle of
water. Two causes suggested themselves to us. One, that the change
was due to the upheaval of earthquake or volcanic disturbance -
and the worn and fused appearance of the stones rather confirmed
us in this belief - the other, that, is known to have been the cause
of other such changes in the courses of rivers, in the last or perhaps
an earlier, glacial age while the river was glacier-fed
it followed a channel not justified by the actual formation of the
land, and as the glacier gradually receded the natural bed of the
river was exposed and followed. Whatever the cause, we were able
to trace from the high ground the course of this ancient river for
some miles above and below us, which must have been at this point
at least a mile in width, shallow above the falls divided by a rocky
bluff, and the falls which we estimated to have had a drop of about
200 feet - must have, according to B. who had been there, compared
very favorably with Niagara. At the foot of the Quodam falls is
a pool, black, poisonous looking and probably very deep, worn in
the hard rock by the volume of water that for unnumbered years had
thundered down onto it from heights above. We were so interested
by this time that we should have greatly liked to have explored
upstream, but it would have probably taken days to discover - perhaps
nothing, and we should have had to travel on foot over a barren
burning country, camping where there was neither water nor shelter.
The contrast between the present aspect of the river and it's appearance,
to conjure up only a trifle of imagination was needed, when it flowed
here, with its magnificent falls and all the roar and rush of water,
and the luxurious growth that then covered its banks and the surrounding
country, left us with the strong impression that we had been looking
at a scene on a dead world. It was a matter of regret to us afterwards
that the best photo secured here gives only the faintest idea of
the immensity of the subject.
Continuing westward for about six miles we came to a second coulee,
where the road was very rough and pitted into holes, but so deep
in dust that the holes were felt rather than seen. The western wall
of the coulee, terraced and fluted, appeared to be of basaltic formation
but on closer inspection was found to be composed of volcanic rock
similar to that seen at Dry Falls. These barren rocks, the brown,
bolder-strewn hillside dotted with grey, stunted sage-brush and
grease-wood, and the coulee bottom streaked with alkali, all gave
such a picture of arid desolation that we naturally thought of rattlesnakes
and thirst, especially as the day was by this time very hot. Maudie
must have had the same feeling, as it was necessary to stop a short
distance on and allow her to drink, but she did not even shy at
a dead rattlesnake - at which the Kid threw stones - which we passed
on the trail. It is a long barren stretch of 44 miles from Coulee
City to Waterville, unbroken by any other interesting feature, but
the Cascades had been drawing nearer and about two miles beyond
Waterville the road led down to the Columbia River in a winding
descent of four miles. Maudie since reaching American territory
had developed a spirit of rebellion against decent and accustomed
restraint, selfishly claiming in the name of democracy to be a law
unto herself without regard to the rights or interests of others,
which lack of principle she fondly imagined represented true freedom.
She would in all probability have hurled herself to headlong destruction
long before reaching the bottom of the hill, had it not been for
the gentle, retroactive pressure and a tactful curtailment of the
power, the transport and motive element, applied by B. her director.
We camped for lunch on the bank of the Columbia River some distance
below Orondo - a view of the river taken from this camp will appear
on page 19 - Shade was very scarce and the sand of the river bank
so hot that it burnt the feet through the soles of your boots. A
fresh pound of butter, which we wished to put into a sealer carried
for that purpose, was found to be of the consistency of oil and
had to be decanted before it could be cooled off in the river. This
spot was too near the road and too public - the river current also
being an unknown quantity - to allow us to bathe, so we contented
ourselves with a wash and, much refreshed followed on down the valley
to Wenatchee, 177 miles from Spokane, where we crossed the river
by the bridge leading into the town, from which bridge a second
view of the river was obtained. Leaving the town, the road runs
past some fine, irrigated orchards and fruit farms, and climbing
steadily in a series of switchbacks goes through Cashmere, about
15 miles from Wenatchee, this being the last place of any size before
crossing what is known as Blewett's Pass through the Cascades.
Since reaching Wenatchee we had noticed an occasional car bearing
the legend "Blewett's Pass is open", but a few miles from Cashmere
we were halted by a party which had just descended the pass and
by them cautioned not to try it, as the road was very bad in places
and though capable of descent was a very difficult proposition to
ascend. By
these people we were advised to return through Wenatchee and take
a long detour through Ellensburg, but as this would have meant a
considerable delay we decided to go on until we were compelled to
turn back. The road had by this time commenced a steady though gradual
climb with the hills ahead apparently presenting an impassable barrier.
At a turn in the road we came upon another party evidently making
camp for the night and as they had also, as we supposed, just come
down the pass we stopped to make inquiries. This man proved to be
a regular kill-joy - his nerve seemed badly shaken by the mischances
he had just met with - telling us that it was absolutely impossible
to make the hills without more power than we possessed. He gave
a harrowing description of his trip down, including one upset, but
on being strictly questioned acknowledged that other cars had made
the trip successfully, so, hoping for the best, but prepared for
disappointment, we continued on our way. The scenery was again magnificent,
though the information we had just received probably interfered
with our full appreciation of it as, driving carefully, we were
continually on the watch for the difficulties of which we had been
warned. We reached Blewett in safety and without trouble, but shortly
after a Ford coupe as we topped a rise was seen below us at the
side of the trail at the foot of a fairly steep hill, so B. scouted
ahead to ascertain the trouble. This proved to be a load of grips
carried by the
owner of the car, which load was said to weigh almost 1,000 lbs.,
a load far too heavy for the power of the car on that kind of trail
and grade. The driver was a commercial traveller, immaculately clean,
wearing a plug hat and evidently accustomed to ease. As any person
who would use a coupe in weather and scenery such as we were enjoying
could not be considered a subject for sympathy, finding there was
room to pass, B. went on to the top of the hill to inspect the trail,
which was very loose and rough in addition to being quite steep.
It was only short however and Maudie getting away to a good start
had no difficulty in reaching the top, where we were again compelled
to stop as another Henry, half car, half truck was stuck near the
bottom of the other side. All hands then turned out to assist, the
drummer being also requisitioned, and succeeded in getting Henry
to the middle of the hill where he again stuck. Fortunately reinforcements
came up at this juncture, then half pushed half carried, Henry struggled
up, and with a little assistance the reinforcements also arrived
at the top. The space at the summit of the hill was now quite crowded,
so, to make room for the commercial and his grips, we thought it
our duty to proceed, after learning that there was really nothing
insurmountable ahead of us and that we were not far from the nearly
completed road. One other detour was necessary down a sharp grade,
through a ford, up again the other side and so onto the finished
portion of the grade, which from here climbs in a continuous corkscrew
to the top of the pass, every turn and twist providing a new view
of extraordinary beauty. The sun was down before we reached the
top and the view dimmed by the approaching night, but the light
and coloring, just before sunset, when the tops of the hills still
caught the sunlight and the valleys were shrouded in violet haze,
requires a completely new set of adjectives to attempt to describe
it, but leaves a memory that will be long in fading.
The top of the pass, 4071 feet above sea level, was crossed with
only a short stop at the road builders' camp, and with a downgrade
helping us an additional five miles was added, making the day's
run 237 miles. The total mileage including side trips 1220 miles,
an average of about 170 miles per day since leaving Regina one week
ago. We called it a day at 9 p.m., camping on a knoll at a turn
in the road. We were in the Wenatchee Forest Reserve and for the
sake of safety we built the fire by the roadside, the beds were
made further back on a thick carpet of pine needles and, very tired
- it can do no harm to record as our apology for this admission
that this had been a 20 hour day, unusually hot, that meals had
been taken at intervals of approximately nine hours and that there
had been some pretty tough work thrown in - but with the pleasant
feeling that we were now almost in sight of our objective and had
on this day at least fulfilled our schedule we looked upon 'Big
Brother' and straightway demolished the oxen and fatlings to the
last bean.
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